FREELAND, P.E.I. — Eric Wagner admits his Moth Lane Brewery in Freeland isn’t the easiest place to find on P.E.I.
“We’re out in the rural area, in the middle of nowhere,” he comments.
And, yet, until one turns onto the Mickey Allen Shore Road, which beats a path to the doors of his brewery, Wagner doesn’t even have signs to point the way, at least not until would-be patrons turn onto the dirt road, where small, placard-styled signs start to pop up – including one that announces, “first brewery on the left”.
There is that one weathered and easy-to-miss little sign, nailed to a utility pole when one turns onto the road that announces its nickname: Moth Lane. The lack of signage doesn't seem to matter though, patrons have been finding their way to his place in numbers that far surpass Wagner’s expectations.
The traffic started on Christmas Eve 2016, the first day the taps were turned on, and it hasn’t let up.
Like craft beer in general, Wagner says the actual getting to his place is a conversation starter and it is why he has resisted the urge to erect highway signage.
Finding their way down the dark dirt road is just part of the experience Wagner offers his growing list of patrons.
His was the fourth brewery on the Island and the first in Prince County, when Moth Lane opened for business. Both numbers have since doubled as has his space and brewing capacity.
I thought it would be low-key, end-of-life career, Wagner said of what he anticipated when he started turning his passion for home brew into a commercial business.
He resists the term brew master.
“I make beer. People like my beer, and that’s all I need.
“It’s been quite a trip. I have no idea where it’s going yet. I ran the business for two weeks and then the business ran me after that,” he says.
He does know where the business is taking him very soon, though: all the way to the Czech Republic, which is known as the world’s leading beer producer, with a tradition that dates back to the year 993. The Czech Republic also ranks highest in the world for beer consumption per capita. He’s excited to observe the country’s beer culture and to talk about craft beers.
Wagner says the offer to attend came “out of the blue.”
John Steinsky, owner of Bines and Vines Czech Imports and honorary local Czech Consul, is helping to co-ordinate the tour for Maritime Canada participants. The tour itself is organized by the Czech Embassy in Washington and the Czech Consulate General in Toronto. Canada and the U.S. will each have 10 delegates attending the mission. Wagner leaves Oct. 11 and returns Oct. 20.
“Oh, I don’t think I can teach them a whole lot,” Wagner says of what beer-making knowledge he can impart on his Czech hosts, but he’s willing to give it a shot, maybe even whip up a recipe for a North American-styled beer if the opportunity presents itself.
He said he had planned to brew his first pilsner beer and bring it with him for his hosts to try, but an extended power outage in the wake of hurricane Dorian scuttled those plans.
“It’s fun to make a brand-new beer and it’s fun to watch other people try it,” he says.
He will be bringing some of his Moth Lane brew with him for sampling.
“It’s very much a bilateral, bi-directional, knowledge exchange going on,” Steinsky said of the trade mission.
He’s hoping Canadian delegates will show interest in his Czech imports for making Czech-styled pilsners and other beers, and manufacturers are hoping to gain Canadian and U.S. orders for their beer-making equipment. He added that many Czech breweries are interested in brewing North American-styled beers.
“I’m hoping Eric will get inspired. I’m sure he will because he impresses me as a very passionate brewer and always eager to learn,” Steinsky says of the P.E.I. delegate on the mission
Wagner says the mission will also be a good opportunity to network with Canadian and U.S. delegates, and to experience the Czech Republic’s beer culture.
On the possibility that the mission could make him busier, Wagner responds, “Well, I think that’s happening anyway, isn’t it?”