For over 2,000 years Sevilla has stretched along the banks of the Guadalquivir at the foot of the CampiÑa hills, dominating plains crisscrossed by rivers which flow down from the surrounding sier¬ras. Nowadays it is a busy capital with much to delight art-lovers, food-lovers and night owls beyond its modern neighbourhoods and wide, congested avenues. Stroll through the network of little streets in the city centre dotted with small shaded squares, and see the splendid palaces and church treasures. There you can get a taste of the city's refined lifestyle in the cool, fragrant gardens and enjoy a tapas snack to perk you up at the counter of one of the bars filled with delicious hams sitting in a row. This is also a theatrical city, where archetypes of passion such as Don Juan, Figaro and Carmen fulfilled their destinies. Sevilla excites religious fervour and profane appetites through its Holy Week processions and ferias. Discover Sevilla in its suit of lights and the hidden city that awakens while the sun sleeps. Have a safe journey!
Practical Information
Tourist Office: Oficina municipal de turismo, Paseo de las Delicias, 9
41012 Sevilla - Tel: 00 34 954 234 465 - Mon.-Fri. 8.20 a.m.-8.45p.m.,
Sat.-Sun. 9 a.m.-2p.m.
Muslim Sevilla
The Cathedral and the Giralda
2hr visit.
This is the largest Gothic cathedral in Spain. Its early 15C builders decided to surprise the world by erecting it over the former Almohade Great Mosque, which until then had only been adapted to Christian rituals. Built over an entire century, this huge stone vessel opens through eight doors which, although from different eras, do not destroy the unity of the whole with its early Renaissance elements.
The Capilla Mayor, protected by a magnificent gate, houses a huge Flemish reta¬ble completed in 1525.
A few steps away stands the Giralda, the true symbol of Sevilla. This former minaret is a masterpiece of Alomohade architecture. The understated decor and materials are a sign of the austere aesthetics of the Almohades, who broke completely with the luxuriant decorative art of the Cordoba califate.
Real AlcÁzar
2hr visit.
The royal palace of Sevilla, built over an Arab fortress, provides an extraordinary summary of Sevilla's archi¬tectural history.
The Palacio del Rey Don Pedro (Palace of King Pedro I) is a magnificent expression of the Mudejar style. Reigning in a period of dynastic rivalries and feudal conflicts, Pedro I, known as "the Cruel" by his enemies, called upon his ally, the Nasride king of Granada, for help.
The gardens have unfortunately gone from the patios, replaced by marble paving, but they now cover 80% of the area south of the palatial complex. Like the palace itself, they still retain the mark of their original creators despite successive transformations.
Traveller's Tips
Sevilla's two great monuments, the cathedral and the AlcÁzar, lie within a tiny perimeter around the Plaza del Triunfo. The Santa Cruz quarter is not far, and we recommend visiting it on foot. There are many restaurants around the cathedral where you can have lunch. Visits are free of charge during mass and other ceremonies. Access is limited, but discreet and patient visitors will appreciate the cathedral's chapels and retables all the more
Barrio de Santa Cruz
Visit this quarter early in the morning as it is sliding into the day, before the tourist groups arrive. Lined on the south by the gardens of the AlcÁzar, the Barrio de Santa Cruz stretches East from the central area to Santa MarÍa la Blanca church. This is the quarter of Sevilla which has best preserved its medieval aspect. Its network of alleys and narrow winding streets suddenly opens onto pretty little squares with benches covered in azulejos tiles, shaded by orange trees.
The Centre
Casa de Pilatos
The Casa de Pilatos − one of Sevilla's architectural wonders − was erected on the square which bears its name, laid out to highlight the building's faÇade. The palace, built over several decades in the late 15C and early 16C, is predominantly mudejar, blending numerous elements in the flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance styles, and bearing witness to Sevilla's golden age. It was the huge fortune and luxurious tastes of Don Fadrique, first Marquis of Tarifa, and his successors, the Dukes of AlcalÁ, which enabled the full expression of mudejar decorative arts, as well as the vast collections of sculptu¬res, furniture and paintings from all over Europe.
The two gardens are cool havens of peace and quiet. Linger a while in the large garden bathed in the scent of orange trees, bougainvilleas and roses, with Italian loggias housing Renais¬sance sculptures.
Museo de Bellas Artes
Sevilla's Fine Arts Museum has exhibited its collections in the former Convento de la Merced since 1841. The con¬vent, built in the 17C under the direction of Juan de Oviedo, is one of the attractions of the museum, which provides a panorama of Sevillian painting from the 15C to the 20C. A pleasant square with a sta¬tue of Murillo lines the entrance to the museum topped by a Baroque gate.
Holy Week (Semana Santa)
The Passion of Christ and worship of the Virgin Mary are celebrated with immense fervour in the streets of Sevilla during Holy Week (from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday). The tradition goes back to the 14C, but the Holy Week celebrations weren't set definitively until the 17C. The processions bring together over fifty brotherhoods which leave each in turn from their different churches and make their way along an assigned path to Calle Cam¬pana, at the northern tip of Calle Sier¬pes. Then all the different brotherhoods take one route together, known as the carrera oficial. This route goes down Calle Sierpes, passes through Plaza de San Fran¬cisco, where stands are set up, before reaching and traversing the cathedral.
Be sure to book your hotel room several months in advance if you want to enjoy Holy Week here (prices have been known to double in some cases).
Wild Sevillian Nights
Now you have had a taste of the beautiful Andalusian city with its Muslim splendours and palaces glowing in the sun's golden rays. But there is a more fiery side to Sevilla, a city known for Spanish nights which intoxicate the senses in a whirlwind of guitars, dances and colours after the sun sets and its lanterns are lit. In this town that is passionate about its celebrations, your Andalusian nights will be as fine as your days.
Flamenco Evenings
Flamenco is the eternal symbol of Andalusia and, fortunately, is not limited to exaggerated performances designed for tourists. In Sevilla, flamenco has remained a tradition that is very much alive and continues to evolve and experiment with new forms while preserving its great classics. Flamenco bars, which offer concerts on certain days of the week, are the main places to go in search of its heart and soul. One of these is Casa Anselma (Calle Pages del Coro n°49) where the proprietress sings after serving drinks to her guests. Another place where you can learn about the different styles of traditional flamenco is the Casa da Memoria de Al-Andalus (Calle Ximenez de Ensisco n°28, 00 34 954 560 670, www.casadelamemoria.com), a kind of flamenco cultural centre where concerts featuring young talents from the flamenco scene take place every evening on the beautiful patio of a 16C palace.
Theatre and Opera
Sevilla is also a city of amorous passion where Don Juan, Figaro and Carmen lived out their romantic destinies. Why not take advantage of the city's wealth of cultural events by attending the theatre or the opera? The Teatro de la Maestrenza holds numerous concerts and performances. Contemporary composers are featured along with zarzuelas, a form of operetta blending musical theatre and dance which experienced a golden age in the 19C. Finish off the evening in one of the city's chic bars in the Arenal quarter (Garlochi, Calle Boteros n°26, Bar Bestiario, Calle Zaragoza)
An Evening in Triana
The Triana quarter, located on the West bank of the Guadalquivir River, has no great churches or princely palaces. But it does still have a number of craftsmen's workshops. Set aside a few hours one afternoon to walk across the bridge and visit its pottery and ceramics workshops. The craftsmen, centred around Calle Alfareria, have preserved an art using enamel and ceramics which dates back to the 15C. At nightfall head towards the Plaza del Altonezo to get to Calle Betis, a street which runs along the river below it. Enjoy the lively atmosphere on this famous street with its many bars where Sevillians come to cool off on the riverbank. From here you can watch the lights of the city gradually being lit.
From classical music to flamenco
Andalusia gave Spain its most illustrious 20C composer, Manuel de Falla (1876-1946), whose passion for flamenco produced two famous ballets: El amor brujo and The Three-Cornered Hat.
Where to Stay:
Hostal Atenas - 50/65 €
Caballerizas 1
Tel: 00 34 954 218 047 - www.atenashostelSevilla.com
This charming little hotel in a typical Sevillian house is nestled at the end of a peaceful cul-de-sac surrounded by greenery. The hotel is located in the historic centre not far from the cathedral and is exceptionally quiet.
HÔtel Amadeus - 19 rooms - 85/110 €
Calle Farnesio 6
Tel: 00 34 954 501 443 - www.hotelamadeusvilla.com
If you fancy a musical ambience, book a room at this refined hotel in an 18C mansion owned by a family of music lovers. The decoration is devoted to music and the verdant patio has a piano for the concerts held once a month. Some rooms have a view of the cathedral.
Where to Eat:
Taberna Patio San Eloy - 10 €
Calle San Eloy 9 - Tel: 00 34 954 501 070 - Daily from 11.30am.
A tavern that is well-known to Sevillians. The dining room is decorated in azulejos tiles, which also cover the attractive terraced steps where you can sit and have a snack of montaditos (little sandwiches) with a glass of sangria.
El Rinconcillo
Calle Gerona 40 / Calle Alhondiga 2
Tel: 00 34 954 223 183
The oldest bar in Sevilla (1670), with a highly convivial atmosphere. Wide choice of tapas (espinacas y garbanzos, huevos a la flamenca, gambas al ajillo, etc.), to be enjoyed in this unique setting.
Other Fun Things to Do:
Hammam: Aire de Sevilla
Calle de Aire 15
Tel: 00 34 955 010 024/025 - www.airedesevilla.com (Reservations required)
To recover from those hot Sevillian nights, there's nothing better than relaxing in the Arab baths, an age-old tradition which had disappeared from the Andalusian capital since the 17C. Baths and massage inside the walls of a former palace provide moments of sheer delight.
Record Shops: Compas sur flamenco
Cuesta del Rosario 7 (Near Plaza del Salvador)
Tel: 00 34 954 215 662
To take a piece of Sevilla's soul with you when you go, visit this record shop with Spanish music, specialising in flamenco. The shop assistants take time to play disks for you and offer advice. Books, videos and dvds are also available.
Modern art in front of La Giralda
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